French Darts in Knits

What is a French Dart?

A French dart is a long, diagonal dart that typically starts low in the side seam—often near the waist or hip—and angles upward toward the bust point. It helps shape both the bust and waist, creating a more tailored and flattering silhouette.

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A knitter recently asked about using French darts instead of traditional horizontal bust darts for a better fit. I immediately agreed—when sewing, French darts are beautiful and often more flattering.

But I had never seriously considered them for knitting.

After a bit of noodling, I realized why we rarely see French darts in knitwear—especially machine knitting.

When machine knitters create bust darts, we use short rows, and these are worked over every other row. It’s a smooth, effective way to add shaping across the bust. For example, to shape a dart, a knitter might hold 3 stitches every other row 6 times. That creates a gentle curve right where it’s needed.

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What if you wanted transform the dart to a French Dart?

  The shaping would need to be more gradual and spread over a diagonal line—something like holding 2 stitches every three rows. Unfortunately, that doesn’t align with how short rows work on the machine.

The result would be awkward shaping and likely a messy finish.

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French darts may be a dream in sewing, but when it comes to machine knitting, they just don’t translate cleanly.

That doesn’t mean you can’t achieve beautiful bust shaping—it just means horizontal bust darts using short rows remain the most practical and elegant solution for knitters. Focus on placement and smooth shaping, and your sweaters will fit beautifully—no French darts required.

Frequently Asked Questions

What makes a dart “French”?

Unlike vertical bust darts, French darts are angled and start lower—usually near the waist or hem. Their diagonal direction helps integrate bust shaping smoothly into the side seam.

Can I add French darts to an existing pattern?

Yes. You’ll need to adjust the front piece by removing stitches in the dart area and adding them back in via short rows. Plan on using graph paper or software to map out the changes.

Are French darts only for women’s garments?

Primarily, yes—because they are used to accommodate bust shaping. However, they could also be used for stylistic shaping in tunics or dresses.

What stitch types work best with darts?

Plain stockinette makes shaping more obvious and smooth, but darts can also work in textured patterns if you’re careful to maintain alignment.

How do I hide darts in finished knits?

Seam placement, yarn color, and pattern direction can help minimize the visual presence of darts. French darts are especially subtle since they originate from the hem.